Frequently Asked Questions

Interior painting costs can vary quite a bit depending on your home and project specifics. A common budgeting rule is to expect roughly $2 to $6 per square foot of floor space for interior painting. (This refers to the home’s footprint or floor square footage, not every wall’s surface area.) In practice, that means painting an average room or whole house interior might range from a few hundred to a couple of thousand dollars and up. In fact, the average interior painting project completed by CertaPro Painters® in the past year was just above $4000

Why such a range? Several factors influence interior painting cost:

• Size of the project: Larger homes (or more rooms) require more paint and labor. For example, painting a 3,000 sq. ft. house interior will cost more than a 1,500 sq. ft. house.
• Condition of the walls: If a lot of prep work (patching holes, repairing drywall, etc.) is needed, that adds to cost.
• Number of coats & colors: Using multiple colors or requiring extra coats for coverage (say, painting a light color over a dark wall) can increase time and paint needed.
• Paint quality and finish: Higher-grade paints (which we recommend for durability) can cost more per gallon. Specialty finishes or textures may also affect price.
• Labor and timing: Professional labor in the Spokane area is competitively priced, but rush jobs or detailed specialty work might cost a bit more.

Because there are so many variables, we always offer a free, no-obligation estimate. This allows us to come to your home, evaluate your specific needs, and give you a detailed proposal. Our written estimates break down everything – from the number of coats and type of paint to any repairs or extras – so you’ll know exactly what your project will cost. Bottom line: interior painting might be a few thousand dollars, but it’s best to get a personalized quote for an accurate figure. (We provide complimentary free estimates for all projects – just ask!)

It’s generally not recommended to use exterior paint for indoor projects. While it might be tempting to use up that leftover gallon of exterior paint on an indoor room, there are important reasons to avoid doing so. Exterior paints are formulated differently from interior paints, mainly because they’re made to withstand weather and UV rays. Here’s why exterior paint should stay outside:

• Higher VOCs: Exterior paints usually contain significantly more volatile organic compounds (VOCs) than interior paints. VOCs are the chemicals that evaporate from paint as it dries (that “paint smell”). In an indoor environment, high-VOC paint will release more toxic fumes into your home than an interior paint would. This can lead to headaches, irritation, or worse – and the off-gassing can last for days or weeks. Interior paints are formulated to be lower in VOCs for healthier indoor air quality.
• Different durability needs: Exterior paint is made to be softer and more flexible once cured, so it can expand and contract with outdoor temperature changes. That’s great for siding, but inside your home, it means the paint might not resist scuffs and scratches as well. Interior paints, by contrast, are formulated to dry harder for better resistance to rubbing, cleaning, and everyday wear.
• Coverage and finish: Exterior paint often doesn’t cover as smoothly on indoor walls. Its “spread rate” is lower – about 300 sq. ft. per gallon for exterior paint versus ~375 sq. ft. for interior paint. So, you’d likely need more coats of exterior paint to get the same coverage on an interior wall. Exterior formulas can also have different sheens or additives (like mildewcides) that aren’t necessary indoors.

In summary, stick with interior paints for indoor projects. They’re safer for your health in enclosed spaces and give you a better finish for walls and trim. (One rare exception: using exterior paint in a non-living space like an unfinished garage or shed might be okay, especially if ventilation is good. But even then, if you have a choice, it’s best to buy the proper interior paint for the job.)

Choosing the right paint sheen (finish) for your exterior is essential for both appearance and durability. For most exterior siding (the main body of your house), a satin sheen is a popular choice. Satin (sometimes called “low luster” or “eggshell” by some brands) offers the best of both worlds – it’s not too shiny, but has just a slight gloss that improves durability and helps the paint resist moisture and mildew. A satin finish also tends to hold its color well over time and is easier to clean than a flat finish. It gives a nice, subtle glow to the home without highlighting surface imperfections.

For exterior trim and doors, we typically recommend a semi-gloss or even high-gloss sheen. Trim (around windows, doors, eaves, etc.) painted in semi-gloss will stand out with a crisp, polished look and, importantly, it’s more hard-wearing and easier to wipe clean. Front doors, in particular, often look fantastic in a higher gloss – it accentuates the color and makes the door pop, while providing a very washable surface for fingerprints and smudges.

What about other sheens? Here’s a quick rundown:

• Flat or matte finish: Flat paints are seldom used on entire exteriors nowadays. While a flat finish can hide surface imperfections well, it doesn’t have the same durability. Flat paint on an exterior will tend to chalk, fade, and degrade faster under the sun and rain. We sometimes use flat or matte on ceilings of porch overhangs or very rough surfaces to hide flaws, but generally not on large siding areas that face the weather.
• Eggshell finish: Terminology varies, but an eggshell exterior finish is slightly more lustrous than flat, but less than satin. It can be a reasonable choice if you want a low-sheen look with a bit more washability than flat. However, most homeowners who want low-sheen end up with satin, since it’s more durable but still not overly shiny.
• High-gloss: As mentioned, high-gloss is usually reserved for small areas like doors, railings, or accents. It’s very shiny and highlights details (and imperfections) the most. It provides maximum durability and is extremely easy to clean. Still, in large areas it would be overpowering visually and could even become tacky or sticky in hot sun (high-gloss coatings can sometimes remain a bit softer). So, we use it sparingly.

In summary, satin sheen for exterior walls is typically your best bet for a balance of longevity and looks, and semi-gloss for trim/doors to make those details stand out and hold up well. Of course, we can adjust based on your preferences – if you love the look of a flat finish, we’ll discuss the trade-offs. But if you ask our professional opinion, we’ll likely steer you toward that satin finish for the main areas of your Spokane home’s exterior. It’s proven to perform well in our climate.

Figuring out how much paint you need for an exterior job can be tricky, but we have a method to estimate it. Here’s how you can get a ballpark idea:

1. Calculate the surface area to be painted: Measure the perimeter of your house and multiply it by the height to get the square footage of wall area. For example, if your one-story house is 40 feet long by 25 feet wide, with 10-foot-tall walls, the perimeter is 40+25+40+25 = 130 feet. Multiplied by the 10-foot height, that’s 1,300 square feet of wall area. Do this for each section of your house. Don’t forget the gables or upper story if you have them. (You can subtract areas for large windows and doors, since they won’t be painted, but it’s often not necessary to be extremely precise at this stage.)
2. Check the paint’s coverage rate: Most exterior latex paints cover around 250 to 400 square feet per gallon on a smooth surface in one coat. Rough surfaces like stucco or textured wood will be on the lower end (more paint needed per sq. ft.), while smoother siding might be toward the higher end. For safety, many pros use 350 sq. ft. per gallon as a rough average coverage.
3. Divide the total area by the coverage: Say you have 1,300 sq. ft. of area and assume 350 sq. ft. per gallon – that comes out to about 3.7 gallons for one coat. You’d round up to buy 4 gallons for a single coat on that area.
4. Consider the number of coats If our example house needs ~4 gallons for one coat, it would need ~8 gallons for two coats. It’s wise to have a little extra for touch-ups, so we might purchase a bit more (many painters add ~10% extra).

To make it easier, some guides provide rough estimates by house size. For instance, a small house (1,000–1,500 sq. ft. of living space) might use 8–12 gallons for two-coat coverage; a medium house (1,500–2,500 sq. ft.) might require 12–18 gallons; and a large home (2,500+ sq. ft.) could be 18–25+ gallons. These numbers include siding plus trim/doors in many cases and assume two coats. Your mileage may vary, but it’s a decent starting point.

Keep in mind, this is a bit of a simplification. Factors like surface texture, porosity, paint color (and its hiding power), and application method (brushing, rolling, or spraying) can affect how far a gallon goes. For example, spraying can use more paint than rolling due to overspray losses. That’s why professionals measure carefully and often use formulas to account for all these variables.

The good news? You don’t have to figure this all out alone.  When you work with us, we handle all the calculations as part of our service. We’ll determine exactly how many gallons of each product are needed so that we’re efficient yet have enough to do the job right (and we’ll always have a little extra for those final touch-ups). If you’re doing a DIY estimate, though, the steps above will help you come close. And when in doubt, round up – getting an extra gallon is often cheap insurance so you don’t run short mid-project.

For interior paint, the stakes aren’t as high (you’re not worried about rain indoors!), but you still want to allow proper drying time for the best results. The good news is that interior latex paints tend to dry quickly. In normal room conditions (around 70°F, some ventilation), interior wall paint is usually dry to the touch within about 1 hour. In two hours, you can often apply a second coat if needed. This is why in many standard room painting projects, we can do two coats in a single day – e.g., one coat in the morning, second coat after lunch.

Here are some tips regarding drying interior paint:

• Ventilation helps: Keeping windows open or running a fan will help the paint dry faster by circulating air and removing moisture. (Plus, it helps clear out that new-paint smell.)
• Avoid extreme humidity: If it’s a very humid day, drying can take longer. Conversely, very dry air or a warm heater can speed up drying – sometimes too fast, which can be an issue with brush strokes or lap marks. Aim for a moderate environment.
• Wait before heavy use: Even though walls might feel dry fairly soon, the paint is still curing. It’s a good idea to wait at least a day or two before using a freshly painted room heavily. By heavy use, we mean things like scrubbing the walls, pushing furniture against them, or affixing tape or adhesive hooks. The paint film strengthens over the first several days. If you can, hold off hanging pictures or installing switch plates until the next day, just to be safe. And if you need to clean a new wall, try to wait two weeks for complete cure unless it’s necessary.
• Drying between coats: As mentioned, 2 hours is a standard minimum wait time for recoating interior walls. Some fast-dry paints can be recoated in 1 hour; others (especially enamels or trim paints) might recommend 4 hours. Always check the can instructions. If you recoat too soon, you can mess up the first coat (the roller might pull it while it’s gummy).
• When it feels dry vs. done: A wall can feel dry long before the paint is truly set. If it’s dry to the touch and you’re in a pinch to move furniture back, it’s usually okay after a few hours. Just be gentle. The surface may still be a bit soft for a day or so.

In summary, interior paint dries quickly – often within an hour – and is ready for a second coat after about 2 hours in many cases. We typically plan on same-day recoating for walls. After painting, give your space some time to air out and dry before resuming normal activities. By the next day, you should be good to go. And if you have any specific product questions (say, you’re using a specialty cabinet paint or something), we’ll be happy to advise on those drying/curing times individually.

Primer is the often-unsung hero of a lasting paint job. In many cases, yes, using a primer is either essential or at least highly beneficial on exterior surfaces. Here’s a breakdown of when and why primer is needed:

• Bare surfaces (unpainted): If you have new or exposed bare wood, bare siding, or new stucco, etc., you absolutely should prime it first. Primers are formulated to seal porous materials and create a bonding layer for the paint. For example, raw wood can absorb paint unevenly – a wood primer will soak in, block stains/tannins, and ensure the topcoat adheres well. Similarly, new masonry or stucco has high pH and porosity; a specialized masonry primer will lock it in and help the paint stick.
• Peeling or repaired areas: If parts of your existing paint have peeled or you’ve scraped off loose paint, those spots need primer before repainting. We often use a bonding primer or a product like Peel Bond on these areas to “glue down” the edges and seal the surface. This helps prevent future peeling by consolidating problem spots. Any time we do carpentry repairs (replacing a board, etc.), the new wood is primed as well.
• Dramatic color changes: Going from a very dark color to a light color (or vice versa) might warrant a primer or a tinted primer coat. Priming in a tinted light grey or similar can reduce the number of color coats needed and improve the uniformity of the final color. While not mandatory, it often makes for a better result when extreme color differences are in play.
• Metal surfaces: If you’re painting metal (like wrought iron railings, aluminum siding, etc.), a metal primer is crucial to inhibit rust and ensure adhesion. For galvanized metal, a specialty primer is needed because regular paint can peel from galvanized surfaces if not properly prepared and primed.
• Stain-blocking: Primers are also used to block stains or tannins. For example, cedar and redwood have oils that can bleed through paint; a primer designed to block those will keep your topcoat from getting discolored spots. Water stains or smoke stains on soffits, etc., are also primed over before painting.

Are there times you can skip priming? If the existing painted surface is in excellent condition, with no bare spots and no adhesion problems, and you’re using a paint + primer self-priming paint, you might not need a separate primer. Many high-end exterior paints are marketed as “Paint & Primer in One,” which essentially means they are formulated to have better bonding and hiding, so they can seal and cover in fewer coats. In practice, when we use these products on a previously painted surface that’s in good shape, we still treat the first coat as the “primer coat” (we apply it carefully to ensure it seals any hairline cracks or bare specks), then add a second coat for the final finish.

However, even with those modern paints, we always spot-prime any problem areas first. For instance, if we have areas of peeling paint or patched wood, we’ll apply a dedicated primer on those spots (like an acrylic bonding primer or Peel Bond) before doing the full coat of the paint. This belt-and-suspenders approach guarantees that trouble spots are taken care of.

To put it simply: Using primer is a key part of our exterior painting process because it leads to a longer-lasting job. It’s the foundation that the topcoat sticks to. Skipping primer when it’s needed can result in early paint failure – peeling, flash rust, stains bleeding through, etc. That’s why our team will evaluate your home and determine the appropriate primer for each surface (wood, masonry, metal, each often needs different primer types). We have primer options for every scenario (for instance, specialty primers for water-blocking or maximum adhesion) and will select the right ones so that your paint has the best chance of performing well.

So yes, exterior painting frequently requires primer, either across the whole surface or in targeted areas. When you hire us, you might not always notice the priming step – because sometimes we tint the primer like the paint color – but rest assured, we’re doing it where needed. It’s one of those professional steps that make a massive difference in the quality and longevity of your paint job.

Our painting season in the Spokane and North Idaho region typically runs from spring through fall. The best time to paint is when we have mild, dry weather – not too cold, not too hot, and minimal rain. Here’s how the seasons generally shake out:

• Summer (Late June, July, August): This is usually prime time for exterior painting. Warm temperatures (70s to 90s °F) and dry conditions help paint dry properly. We do have to watch for heat waves – extremely hot days (mid-90s and above) can cause paint to dry too quickly or cause other issues, so we sometimes start at dawn and pause in late afternoon if it’s scorching. But overall, summer’s long days and reliable weather make it ideal. It’s no surprise you often see houses being painted all over town in the summer months.
• Spring (Mid March into June): Spring can be a great time if the weather cooperates. By April, we usually are past the freeze/frost. We look for a window of dry days with temperatures consistently above about 50°F. Modern paints like the ones we use can be applied in cooler temps — some are rated down to 35°F. However, the daytime temp isn’t the only factor; we also need the nights to be not too cold (and preferably dry). Spring can have rain showers, so we plan carefully. When we get a stable high-pressure system in late spring, we jump on those painting opportunities. The advantage of painting in spring is that your house is fresh for the summer and you beat the rush.
• Early Fall (September, early November): Early fall can also be excellent. September in Spokane often has many warm, dry days, but not the intense heat of mid-summer. We do keep an eye on nights – by mid-to-late fall, nights get dewy and cold. As long as daytime highs are hitting 50°-60°F and nights aren’t much below the 40s, we can still paint successfully. In the fall, we aim to complete exteriors by around mid-October, because later you risk cold fronts or the odd early snow.
• Winter (Late Oct through March): Exterior painting in winter is generally a no-go here due to low temperatures, rain/snow, and the possibility of paint not curing correctly. Paint needs a minimum temperature to dry and cure. Even though some paints say they can cure at 35°F, that’s a minimum – you’d need perfect conditions (sunshine, no moisture) and even then, drying is slow. Plus, as we noted above, dew and frost are issues. Winter’s moisture and freezing can ruin fresh paint. Therefore, we usually pause exterior projects in winter and resume when the weather permits. (Interiors, of course, we do year-round since we can control conditions inside.)

Thanks to advances in paint, we have flexibility. Sherwin-Williams, for example, has formulated paints that allow painting in lower temperatures than in decades past. We’ve successfully done some exteriors in late March or early November on rare occasions when we had an unseasonably warm, dry spell. We just must be very mindful of the forecast and conditions. We won’t risk a client’s project if the weather isn’t suitable – timing is everything for a good result.

To summarize, the sweet spot for exterior painting in our area is roughly late March through mid-October. That’s when you’re safe in terms of weather. June-July-August are typically the busiest (and most reliable) months, less any heat waves. If you’re looking to schedule painting, it’s wise to plan ahead for those seasons. We can certainly paint in early spring or late fall if the specific conditions allow – and we’ll advise you honestly. Part of our job is to determine if it’s too cold or wet to paint. We want your project to turn out perfectly, so we will schedule (and occasionally reschedule) to work around Mother Nature’s mood swings.