Professional Solutions to Paint Failures

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Paint failure takes many forms and has many causes. If not addressed, some of these conditions can cause further damage to the underlying materials, potentially creating even bigger problems. The specialists at CertaPro Painters® of the Upper Charles can identify underlying causes of paint failure, treat the problem, and make your property look and perform at its best. The examples below can help you identify and better understand the specific type of paint failure affecting your building.

Picture Framing

When corners and edges are cut in with a brush and end up darker or lighter than the rolled-on wall color, creating a picture frame effect. This can be caused by using a brush that produces a thicker film than roller or adding colorant to a non-tintable paint or using the wrong type or level of colorant. In order to prevent this problem, make sure to maintain similar spread rates with brushes and rollers. Don’t cut in the entire room before roller coating – work in smaller sections of the room to maintain a “wet edge”. Be sure correct colorant-base combinations are used and shake paint thoroughly at time of sale.


Wrinkling

Rough, crinkled paint surface occurring then paint forms a “skin”. Causes of wrinkling can be from applying paint too thickly, painting a hot surface or painting in very hot weather, exposure of uncured paint to rain, dew, fog, or high humidity levels, application of top coat paint to insufficiently dried first coat, or inadequate surface preparation. Solutions included scraping or sanding substrate to remove wrinkled coating; then, repainting at the manufacturer’s recommended spread rate. When painting during hot, cool, or damp weather, allowing extra time for the paint to dry completely can prevent wrinkling.


Burnishing

Burnishing occurs when there is an increase in gloss or sheen of paint film when subjected to rubbing, scrubbing, or having an object brush up against the paint. Causes included use of flat paint in highly trafficked areas, frequent washing and spot cleaning, furniture rubbing against the walls, or use of lower grades of paint with poor stain and scrub resistance. To prevent burnishing, use top quality latex paint for heavy wear areas that require regular cleaning (e.g., doors, window sills and trim). Use of semi-gloss or gloss in high traffic areas as well as spot-priming where necessary, before repainting with a top quality latex exterior paint, will also prevent burnishing.


Cracking & Flaking

Cracking and flaking occurs when dry paint film splits. This can be caused by use of lower quality paint which has inadequate adhesion and flexibility, over thinning paint or spread it too thin, poor surface preparation or failure to use primer, or painting under cool or windy conditions that make latex paint dry too quickly. If cracking does NOT go down to the surface, a solution can be to remove loose paint with a scraper or wire brush, sand to feather the edges, prime bare spots, and repaint. If cracking DOES go down to the surface, a solution can be to remove all paint by scraping and/or sanding; then, priming and repainting with a quality exterior latex paint.


Sagging

Paint sagging is the downward drooping of paint film immediately after application. This is caused by application of a heavy coat of paint, humidity and/or cool conditions, using over-thinned paint,  or airless spraying with the fun too close to the surface being painted. Possible solutions include correcting unfavorable conditions: do not thin the paint, avoid cool or humid conditions, and sand glossy surfaces. If the paint is still wet, immediately brush out or re-roll to distribute the excess evenly. If the paint has dried, sand and reapply a new coat of top quality paint.


Alligatoring

Patterned cracking resembling the scales of an alligator. Alligatoring can be caused by application of an extremely hard, rigid coating, like an alkyd enamel, over a more flexible coating, like a latex primer, application of a top coat before the undercoat is dry, or natural aging of oil-based paints as temperatures fluctuate. To fix this type of paint failure, old paint should be completed removed by scraping and sanding the surface. To prevent alligatoring, prime the surface with high quality latex or oil-based primer; then paint with a top quality exterior latex paint.


Blistering

Blistering appears as bubbles resulting from loss or adhesion and lifting of paint film from the surface. This can be caused by painting a warm surface in direct sunlight, application of oil-based or alkyd paint over a damp or wet surface, seepage of moisture through worn caulk, roof area, or walls, exposure to dew, high humidity, or rain, shortly after paint has dried, or inadequate surface preparation. Solutions include identifying and repairing the source of moisture, removing blisters by scraping; then sanding and priming the bare surface with appropriate sealer, and repainting with a quality latex exterior paint.


Fading

Premature and/or excessive lightening of paint color, sometimes as a result of chalking is considered a fading paint failure. This can be caused by use of interior paint outdoors, lower quality paint, leading to rapid degradation (chalking) of the paint film, use of a paint color that is particularly vulnerable to UV radiation (most notably bright reds, blues and yellows), or tinting a white paint not intended for tinting, or overtinting a light or medium base. When fading is a result of chalking, it is necessary to remove as much of the chalk as possible. We recommend repainting with a quality exterior house paint in colors recommended for exterior use.


 Galvanized Metal

Paint that has lost its adhesion to a galvanized metal surface. This can be caused by improper surface preparation, failure to apply a primer, or failure to sand based-on enamel finishes or glossy surfaces before painting. Solutions include removing rust with a wire brush and priming with an acrylic latex corrosion-inhibitive primer. Previously painted galvanized metal that is completely rust-free can be painted without applying primer. Latex metal primer should be applied to unpainted galvanized metal; then painted with a top quality exterior acrylic paint.


 Chalking

Chalking is identified when a fine powder is coming off the paint. This can be caused by use of low-grade, highly pigmented paint or use of an interior paint outdoors. Solutions include removing as much chalk residue as possible with a stiff bristle brush (or wire brush on masonry) and rinsing thoroughly or power washing. It is important to check for any remaining chalk by running a hand over the surface after it dries. If chalk is still present, apply a quality oil-based or acrylic latex primer (or comparable sealer for masonry); then, repaint with a quality exterior coating. If little or no chalking remains and the old paint is sound, no priming is necessary.


 Blocking

Blocking is the undesirable sticking together or two paint surfaces. This is caused by either insufficient dry time before closing doors or windows or use of low quality semi-gloss or gloss paints. Solutions include use of top quality semi-gloss or gloss acrylic latex paint. Acrylic latex paints have better early block resistance than vinyl paints or alkyd paints, but alkyds develop superior block resistance over time. Talcum powder may also relieve persistent blocking.


 Dirt Pickup

Accumulation of dirt, dust particles, and/or other debris on the paint film. This type of paint failure may resemble mildew. Dirt pickup is caused by use of low quality paint, especially lower grades of satin or semi-gloss, soil splashing onto siding, or air pollution, car exhaust, and flying dust collecting on siding and trim. To fix, wash off all surface dirt before priming and painting and rinse thoroughly. In some cases, heavier direct accumulations may require the use of a power washer.


 Lapping

The appearance of a denser color or lighter gloss where wet and dry layers overlap during paint application. This can be caused by failure to maintain a “wet edge” when applying paint. In order to avoid this problem, avoid painting in the direct sunlight and make sure to maintain a wet edge when painting by applying paint towards the unpainted area and then back into the just-painted surface. Minimize the area being painted, and plan for interruptions at a natural break, such as a window, door, or corner. Alkyd paints generally have superior wet edge properties.


 Flashing (AKA Poor Sheen)

Shiny or dull spots on a painted surface. This can be caused by uneven spread rate, failure to properly prime a porous surface, or surface with varying porosity, or poor application resulting in lapping. Solutions include priming or sealing uncoated surfaces and applying paint from “wet to dry” to prevent lapping.


 Cohesive Failure

When caulk does not adhere to fill a gap film from the surface. This usually occurs when caulk is subjected to joint movement beyond its designated capabilities. Sometimes, this occurs if not enough caulk is applied because a caulk’s extension/compression rating is a percentage of the size of the caulk bead. Solutions include identifying the source of the separation and re-caulking to close areas of separation.


 Vinyl Siding Warp

Warping or buckling of vinyl siding panels that have been painted. This is caused by vinyl siding being painted a darker color paint than the original. To prevent warping, paint vinyl siding in a shade no darker than the original. Top quality acrylic latex paint is the best type of paint to use on vinyl siding because of the superior flexibility. Siding that has warped or buckled may have to be replaced.


 Paint Incompatibility

Paint incompatibility is characterized by the loss of adhesion where many old coats of alkyd or oil-based paint receive a latex top coat. To prevent this, use a water-based latex paint over more than three or four coats of old alkyd or oil-based paint. Solutions include repainting using another coat of alkyd or oil-based paint or completely removing the existing paint and preparing the surface – by cleaning, sanding, and spot-priming where necessary – before repainting with a top quality latex exterior paint.


 Efflorescence

Crusty, white, salt deposits leached from masonry as water passes through it. Efflorescence is caused by failure to properly prepare a surface and remove previous efflorescence or by excess moisture escaping through walls. This can be removed using a wire brush or power washer and lightly rinsing off the remaining residue. Once clear, the area can be spot primed and repainted.


 Mildew / Algae

Black, gray, or brown growth on the surface of paint, caulk or other surfaces. Mildew or algae forms on damp areas that receive little or no direct sunlight. Failure to properly clean and prime the painting surface can cause mildew and algae to appear. To remove, wash the surface with 3 parts water and 1 part household bleach solution.


 Peeling

Loss of paint due to poor adhesion. Peeling is caused by the seepage of moisture through worn caulk, roof area or walls or by inadequate surface preparation. To fix, start by identifying and eliminating the source of moisture, removing all loose paint with a scraper or wire brush and applying an acrylic primer and repainting the surface.


 Cracking Over Caulk

Paint separating when it dries over caulk. Caulk is more flexible than paint, which can result in cracking when paint film is subjected to some sort of movement of the caulk below. To fix, identify the cause of the movement and sand to remove ridges and repaint.